Need suggestions/help on tiling 4×7 area.

Need to redo laundry closet and maybe my bathroom if it’s not too hard. Im gonna see if there are any workshops at the home centers and read online how to do it. How easy is it to mess up? Both parts currently have linoleum with cement under it. Basically gonna redo most of the bathroom.

I want this

To turn into this

I certainly wouldn’t call tiling easy, but there are plenty of how-tos online

Like this one

It’s certainly DIY-able, but do your research and start in a small not-as-important area to make sure you got the hang of it.

Good luck, and post pix
I’ve been floor laying, including hundreds of rooms with tile every summer for 7 years and last year I did it for a whole year. Just so you know that I have experience in this.

Don’t strip the lino. It will be hell and you will give up half way and end up just using cement filler to float it after. You can lay lino over top of lino of you float the floor fist so you sure as hell can put tile over it. Dont’ let anyoen convince you otherwise.

Do not go into a small corner first. It will look like shit. you either decide to do the whole thing at once or plan ahead really well so taht the bathroom won’t look like shit later on. Take the bathroom and measure dead center of the doors, drawing lines from each wall that meets in the center. Kind of like quadrants. This is where you wil start and the lines will help you so that you don’t go crooked. I still do this.

Your walls are never straight, ever. i’ve never run into a straight wall in my life and if you start from the wall you will fuck up. Well, maybe not that much in such a small room but you still mighta nd it will look tacky. Start in that middle and work your way out of one side and then come up the other door and repeat. The closet will be whatever it is and it will look good because it wil flow with the bathroom.

The only way to adjust this is to do a dry run and make sure that the tiles don’t end up 3 inches from the wall from the last full tile row and you end up having to cut a 2 1/2 inch strip along it.

I don’t think I’ve explained myself here well.

As for laying it, keep the loving cripes off the tiles once you set them. Dont even place your hand on it as it will shift. It seems obvious but so any peopel do this. The easiest thing for you to do is use spacers. If you think your gods gift to handywork like so many do it yourselfers go ahead but you won’t get as good results. Lay the tile on on edge and place it down. Press on it and wiggle it a bit to set it. Oh ya, if your floor is wonky you will want to take the trowel and hold it completely vertical to get the highest rows of cement to compensate for the wavy floor. If you didn’t float the floor and it’s really wavy just add some more cement on the drop and set it a bit thinner on the high side. That is if your tile wobbles when you set it down.

If you don’t use a water saw but instead a manual diamond bit you will probably break quite a bit of the skinnier pieces. You’ll get the hand of it though. Always order more tiles than you need because you will need more.

If you have cement in between the tiles and it rises quite high take a key or a something and scoop it out. It’s easy to scrape off cement from the face but it’s a bitch to chip it down so that you can do a proper groove with the grout later on.

When it comes time to grout just mix it with water until you get it just on the watery side of being sandy. You can always add more water if need be. Use the corners and edges of a yellow sponge to make your groove nice. A sponge and your hand is always the best.

Use those bathroom gloves. You know those toilet scrubbing ones. If you get the grout on your hands they will be dry for days if not a week. It’s so tell you this as I coudl show you in about 10 minutes with much greater accuracy.

Godo luck!
I signed up for a ceramic tile workshop at a home center on Saturday. Ill go to that and read your instructions again because im more of a visual learner. Have any pics of the steps you listed?

In the laundry closet, I cut out a few pieces of the linoleum because I was thinking that you had to strip everything. There is still some paper backing. Can I still lay tile over or do I need to strip to cement?

What about the edges along the wall were the linoleum is curled? Just cut that off?
Sorry no pics. I will try to put somethign together in paint.

Yes just cut off the curled edges. Like I said you can lay lino on lino (With a little preparation like floating) and that’s the most finicky flooring you can do so certainly tile till work.

You don’t need to float the floor unless it is really wavy. Even if you tear half the lino off you won’t need to float the rest to make it level because of the thickness of the tile and the amount of cement you use.

If you want to strip it by all means do it. If it’s basement lino it’s usually a royal pain in the ass(Well all lino is unless it is loose layed). If it comes off easy there was water damage or the there was something wrong with the glue or the glue was put down wrong but you would be able to see the water damage anyway. Lino, when layed properly, is supposed to be a nightmare to take off once dried.

Some people go right ahead and lay the tile over the lino without touching anything(Well cutting off curled edges) while others like to sand the lino down a bit before laying the cement. It gives it a nice base to adhere to instead of a slippery base. You wouldn’t sand the lino down to the paper though.

What I am getting at and they should tell you this at the workshop is that it is important that you get the tiles in the bathroom looking right and then move in to the closet and whatever the tile pattern ends up in the closet it is. The important part is making the bathroom look nice. Part of this is starting from center of the room and center of the doorway and work from the middle point outward in all four directions. This is because the walls are never straight and certainly never parallel with each other and if you start from there the rest of the bathroom wil look stupid.

Think of it like drawing a cross on your floor. Make your bathroom into 4 quadrants and use these lines to keep your rows straight. It’s better to gradually cut off 1/4 of an inch every foot from the tile row by the wall than start at the wall and have this 1/4 per foot misalignment show the whole floor, and certainly once you get to the other wall. It will also show up when you get to the door and it wil look terrible.

Buy tile spacers. Ask for spacers for floor tiles. They will be black crosses in various widths. I don’t know what would look best for you so ask. This also helps you save your alignment when you inevitably place you hand on a tile that isn’t quite set and you move it a bit.

Once you get to the edges you usually have a generous amount of space to work with. Usually a baseboard or some tile up the side. Don’t worry about getting the tile 1/16" to the wall, you will just waste time. Find out what you are going to put next to the wall and just go a bit under that width.

One of the biggest mistakes DIY’s do is screw up the grout. It can’t be too watery it has to clump up nice. you will be using sanded grout because non sanded looks bad on flooring. Backsplash yes but not flooring. Add the grout to water, not the other way around. This is key to a quick and consistence mixture. Take a half cup of water and add some grout and mix. If it’s too watery add more grout and if it’s too thick add some water. Do this until you get a texture that is like wet sand, becuase that is basically what it is. You can form it but it doesn’t appear crumbly.

With the cement and the grout wait 10 minutes after you mix before applying it. Always.

When you apply the grout you will be using a rubber trowel. Put some grout on the edge and apply in the cracks as if you were scraping off peanut butter from a knife into the jar again. Do a few square feet and then take the corner of your rubber trowel and run it down the rows, making a nice U in the rows. This is where it helps to get rid of the cement from the rows that pops up when you lay the tile. If you leave it to dry by the time you make that U in the rows your cement may be too high and you’ll end up with your nice grout and some ugly cement sticking up from the rows.

Keep going until you do about 3 rows by three rows. Then go with a sponge, one of those yellow ones will do(REMEMBER YOUR GLOVES!) and do the same technique as your rubber trowel except lighter. This is just a finishing touch. If the grout in your rows is too high you can take a bit off with your sponge. The sponge should be in a few gallon pail with plenty of water and you will change this often. Make sure the sponge is damp but now wet. Now wipe the tile down, making sure to scrub the grout off the face in those crevices that floor tiles have before it dries or else it’s a pain to get off later.

Keep going and once your done do a second and third wipedown of the surface. You won’t scrape off any grout if you lightly go over it.

Also rent a power drill and a mixer attachment to mix the cement for the tile. You have to make a lot and it gets thick and your arm will kill if you do it manually.

Clean all your buckets and tools with warm/hot water and a vegetable scrubber you can get at Safeway.

I hope that was a bit more clear.
blackbird’s advice ftw

buy cheapo kneepads, thats the only thing I can suggest…worst case, the wifey can always use them later on
Yes buy kneepads. Also I forgot one important thing that will bug the hell out of me. UNDERCUT THE DOOR JAMS. I see that the one door jam is already undercut a bit but you will need more. Whenever you lay flooring one of my biggest pet peeves of DIY’s is to lay lino or tile or hardwood up next to the doorjam and try to cut around the shape of the jam and whenever it comes up shitty(It always does), they try to cover up the gap with caulking.

Either buy a dovetail saw or rent an undercut saw(You will only need the powersaw for about 30seconds for all the jams), and take your tile and place it on the lino right up against the jams. Do this before any other prep work. Now for a undercut saw you can adjust the height and I would do it about 1/2 inch from the top of the tile becuase you want to compensate for the cement. With the dovetail saw you can place a piece of wood 1/2 inch over the tile or a thinner tile over the tile and cut using that. This allows you to put the tile right under the jam and make a nice clean finish. If this is hard to understand in type please ask the guys at the workshop.

It’s called Scribing. here is a link that will give you an idea. Once you see the end product you will never go back to doing the 45 angles again.

Of course you have to take the toilet off right? Also some tile toekicks on the vanity would look good.

If you have any other questions just ask. I have some really good tricks to make inside corners with baseboards look perfect, no matter what the shape of the baseboard. People usually just do it at 45degrees and join but there is a much better way if you have a coping saw and some aptitude with sawing as you will need to saw with the shape of the baseboard. It can be done in about 30seconds though and will look amazing.

here is a animated link for scribing. It applies to baseboards as well. Don’t mind the girly site.
Have any ideas for paint color and tile color? Im gonna paint the closets white and ceilings eggshell or off white.We’re selling the house too and putting it up near summer after I repaint, fix the drywall, and other shit. Gonna have to re-do the kitching flooring because we put vinyl stickers over linoleum.

Cost of tools for tiling (excluding if I can rent that saw)?

Just reply here.
If you are planning on doing lino for the kitchen, especially if you have an island and many corners is to hire a professional. It is by far the hardest thing to do in flooring and is extremely easy to fuck up and tear and very expensive when you do. I have done so many lino projects and you have to be very very careful, know what you are doing at all times and use lots of electricians tape on the corners. Plus you have to learn how to do toekicks using the same piece of lino you have on the floor so that it flows better. It requires the least amount of tools but by far the most skill. Tiling will be nothign compared to lino in a kitchen with an island.

As for cost I don’t know but I can give you a list of things you will need.

If you are redoing the baseboards you will need to rent a mitre saw.

baseboards: Mitre saw, coping saw, nailgun with compressor(Or finishing nails and patience) , tape measure, pencil.

For flooring:

A 5 gallon bucket for the cement
A 1 gallon bucket for the grout
Corded Drill with mixer attachment and handle at the end so you can give er’ hell and lean into it(The mixer isn’t a paddle I’m not sure what it’s called. it looks like an auger).
Either rent a wetsaw or rent a diamond tipped floor cutter. The saw will reduce breakage, especially with little pieces and is much faster. you can also do more shapes.
Some hand snippers to cut small chips off of the tile.
Something to draw the starting cross line.
Tape measure
tile spacers
grout sealer
coping saw to rent or buy a dovetail saw for the jamb.
new wax ring for toilet
measuring cup of some kind to take the water out of the toilet bowl before you lift it
cap for the tile if you run a 4 inch peice or so up the wall instead of a baseboard
rubber float
rubber gloves
a mixing paddle for the grout
vegetable scrubber for cleaning
tile cement(called Thinset)
floor float stuff if your floor is wavey. They will tell you what they have at the store. it differs
Deep square notched trowel for the cement(Thinset)
scrap lino or wood or something to set the toilet on in another room or just put it in the tub
Good pencil for writing on the tile the wetsaw will erase most of your line
compass with a felt tip on one end for making the circle for the toilet drain.
A skillsaw for shaving down the doors or closets possibly because of the added height in flooring
Green painters tape to put on the doors that you cut so that it doesn’t splinter
earmuffs because the water saw for the tile screams and it’s the worst sound you will ever hear. It actually enrages people it’s so disorienting when you cut.
maybe protective glasses if you are a pansy.
vaseline and some surgical gloves because if you don’t use the rubber gloves for the grout this will be the only thing to correct your insanely dry hands

There may be more but this is the essentials for a good job. Rent everything for laying the tile one day and rent all the finishing stuff the next after the tile sets.

Don’t skimp out. I know many homeowners are blissfully ignorant but when you do get someone like me that pays attention to the details and is willing to pay top dollar for a great home, I will walk away if I see somethign like jambs that weren’t undercut and flooring that is awkwordly up against it and caulked to hell to compensate.

This is a lot but I’ve used every single thing on this list at just about every job. I’m sure you can get around with less stuff but it will make the work harder.
Not doing linoleum in the kitchen. We had cigarette burns so we covered with the vinyl self stick stuff. It looks kind of tacky the way it is now and im sure the new owners will see it as a turn off for buying the house.

What colors do you see in most newish homes?
carpet in the restrooms would be a easy way out…lol!
I don’t know what colours really. i stopped doing this about 8 months ago and then it was a lot of people moving to bamboo and other woods in 90% of the house. I have done tile for relatives in that time but they all built their own houses and each has it’s own theme. You could call it craftsman houses but most craftsman houses now are just as cookie cutter as the next so I don’t know if their unique houses would be a good example to follow.

I will say this though, it seems that the demand for natural colours up here is starting to fade a bit. People want more wild colours. Of course natural colours, be it hardwood or tile, will always be a good choice for resale.

Is there a central theme for the house? The walls won’t matter that much because people can always change the colour, but the flooring should match the rest of the house. Honestly I woudl try googling some sites for this answer or going to a design forum.
Central theme? Not rly. House has that color wood trim all around and light colored carpets.

I’d want the restroom tiles to be kinda rough because im thinking there would be a lot of traffic between the deck/hot tub to the RR and people having their shoes on.
white matches with everything…. white with some other color spots…
Most floor tiles are rough or have texture. We had a rule to not put down smooth tiles on floors or stairs and then have idiots slip and fall and sue us. Even with a contract you never know what people will do.

Just decide on a darker or lighter tile if there is no theme. By dark I don’t mean black or chocolate but just a darker cream and brown as opposed to the lighter colour you have in your last picture. From there there are hundreds of variations of light and dark and patterns for tile. use a colour wheel to match tile with paint and baseboards. You can never go wrong with a colour wheel, especially if you aren’t a designer or a person building a house for themselves and not to sell. You can use one at any home store.

I also forgot that you will need some silicone caulk for against the shower. Some people caulk around the toilet after they put it back on but I don’t like that and it seems that the vast majority of people can’t run a decent silicone bead worth anything.