My project (lots of pics)

Step 1: Buy house.

Step 2: Get annoyed with quality of basement finish.

Step 3: Gut it

Step 4: Go from Colorado to Florida for work for 2 weeks. Have a problem with furnace and get whole house to freeze. Have 4 pipes burst and get to come back and fix the problem. Luckily my house didn’t flood. In these pics, you can see where the piping originally ran along the front edge of the house where it can get freeze the easiest. Since it burst there anyways, I rerouted the piping straight into the middle of the house then over to the center so there was minimum piping along the front.

Step 5: Finish gutting everything and start laying out new walls. I got enough steel to get me started. Hopefully I can get some walls up by tomorrow.

spoken like a true coke addict
Is that one of those "as seen on TV ladders"? I forget the exact name of it.
hell no it’s not a "little giant" or whatever they call it…those are like $400. This is a Werner, and it was like $200 at Lowe’s. Should come in really handy when I start working by the stairs.
Why metal studs? Are they code for residential in your area?
I’m doing all the work myself and I find metal studs much easier to work with. The basement walls here have to be floating, so with a wood wall you assemble the whole thing then lift it up to secure it to the joists. With a steel wall, you just hang the upper track and put each stud in place. Also, there’s no sawdust. Another benefit is that they won’t warp or bend. That’s a big problem in CO with the dry weather.
You can always build wooden walls in place too… but I guess I’ve heard some guys like steel. I’ve never messed with it myself. Are you using a Hilta Gun to shoot the footers into the ground?
you can also easily work with metal studs with tin snips and no saw at all really. But they suck ass when hanging dryall on it. My friend is building a house and using metal studs. I have stripped more screws than screws that I have actually gone in correctly. I suck at teh drywall

so what are teh plans for this room?
I will be using a hilti gun for setting the slip tracks (footers). For building wood walls in place, you’d toenail them in, which looks sloppy to me. Also isn’t easy when floating the wall.

I didn’t have any trouble at all with hanging drywall on it. I used a Senco screw gun for most of it. Just keep in mind the screws for drywall on metal have a finer thread pitch than the screws for drywall on wood.

The only plans I have thus far are to make what was one huge bedroom into two and build a custom tile shower in the bathroom.
oh, I ripped out the remainder of the drywall that was in the far area. I was going to leave it up, but the wiring was such a mess that I was going to have to rip out half of it to figure out what was done before. In just that area, there were two areas where splices were made in the ceiling with no access. There was no clear layout for it, so I get to rewire the whole basement.
in for updates.. you got your work cut out for ya! looks good

Building floating walls in place is pretty hard to do. Much easier to secure the bottom plate, build the wall, raise it, shim the wall (middle plate) on the bottom plate, drive a few spikes into the bottom plate, secure the top plate….remove shims. You essentially have an upside down wall (double bottom plate) but you can do it reverse and leave the gap (for movement) at the top.

Project looks good. I need to post a few pics of the mini bar I did…Im all out of projects now
Permits shmermits.

Seems like you would lay out your footer, hilti gun it in place, lay out your header, nail it in place, and then toe-nail your studs in place. It won’t look sloppy… inside of a wall. Or build your wall flat on the ground and then lift it up in place and secure it.

What about your deal makes either of those options hard? Just curious.

Permits shmermits.

Seems like you would lay out your footer, hilti gun it in place, lay out your header, nail it in place, and then toe-nail your studs in place. It won’t look sloppy… inside of a wall. Or build your wall flat on the ground and then lift it up in place and secure it.

What about your deal makes either of those options hard? Just curious.

That’s easy japanesey…but in Colorado (and where I live in Canada) basement walls must be floating to allow movement. Usually up to 3/4 to an 1", but it might be more in CO. Because of frost/moisture the basement slab can move up and down and the wall must move with it.

Wait… so where IS the wall attached?

Well it depends where you float it from. If you float it from the bottom, your bottom plate of the wall will have a gap between the bottom plate on the floor. Most people will drill a few holes, every second stud bay or so, and drive in a 4" ardock spike. So the wall is secure, but it can still move up and down on the spike.

With the steel studs, I think he will end up just having the studs sit in the bottom track. So they can move up an down, and once the drywall is on, won’t be able to move side to side. (although I think with metal studs there are usually suports running horizontally keeping the studs on centers anyway)
I left my camera at my parents’ house, but I’ll take pics later. First the slip tracks (footers) are layed out. Then the track will be attached to the ceiling above the slip track. Then studs are put in place using two screws to attach to the top track and one on the bottom. When all is done, drywall is hung horizontally, covering the top of the wall first. When the first panel is hung, the screws are removed from the slip track (footer) so the wall can float.

Probly confusing, but I’ll have something to show later.
Here you can see the process of putting up a wall with steel. I worked from the top down on this one since it had to be centered on the beam. Other walls I’ll lay out the floor and then the top track.

1: Attach top track to steel beam with clamps:

2: Attach top track to beam with screws:

3: Hang stud with clamp and screw other side:

4: Use level to get studs vertical and set base (my base isn’t set because there’s going to be a closet opening there and i didn’t measure for it yet). You can see that I cut the stud 1.5" short of the ground so that it can be attached temporarily to the slip track, then will float later.

Other:

I have a problem with the floor shaking when walking on it due to the joists being at 24" OC. I put some bracing up and have noticed a huge improvement with just the few that are in. I’ll be doing this to most of the joists later.

When I originally viewed this thread I thought the first pic was of a detached garage and didn’t notice the rest of the house.

Landscaping should be another fun project.
I’ll get to the landscaping last…when it warms up in the Spring
Looks good. Just as thought it would be done.

Are you going to drywall the ceiling? Get those wires into a junction box (if its going to be permanent).
So you have a gap at the bottom of the wall that you cover with trim?
I don’t want to sound like an ass – but are you aware of the special wire that needs to be used for electrical when using steel studded walls?

I’ll hang drywall to 1.5" off the ground, then that gap is covered with the trim.

I use standard 14/2 NM-B wire. I Just use a bushing to go through the studs, and there’s no problem.

Lookin’ good Bryan. I’m sure the satisfaction is well worth the effort put into it. You’re doing construction like I like to do it, fast and well thought out.

Good job!
Why are there visible, horizontal studs against the walls?

Oh, and I know it costs more, but if a 2×4 brace helps the floor shaking alot, then a 2×10/12 will help alot more.
the studs against the wall are furring strips…Instead of framing in with studs, the previous person simply attached 2×4’s to the foundation. In the other room, it was done with 1×1’s.

I’d do it with 2x10s everywhere, but I don’t care that much…and I have a huge pile of 2x4s from what I ripped down.

When I’m done with all the work, I’ll be buying another house and renting this one out.
Got a little more done:

The area under the stairs is going to be finished and accessible from the back of the bedroom closet.

Finally got the layout drawn, so tomorrow morning I’ll draw in the wiring diagram and go pull the permits.

Unfortunately I haven’t gotten too much done lately, just spent the last week in Puerto Rico for work. The framing is about 75% done. Hopefully I’ll have a chance soon to get a new driver’s license so I can pull the permit. I either have to be a contractor, or this has to be my permanent address in order for me to get the permit.

damn, resurrected from the dead. I’ll post some pics soon.