Do they make electrical splice connectors like this?

I just bought a bunch of halogen under-cabinet lights. Unfortunately
each one is wired individually to a plug and it comes with an extension cord to plug them all into .

I would like to run an electrical cord for one light from my switch to the far side of the cabinet. Then I would like to splice in my other lights off this single line.

There is something called a tap splice connector, it looks like this:

Tap-Splice Connectors

Tap-Splice Connector

but that’s not really what I am looking for as it only taps one wire at a time.
I want to splice in both wires for each lamp with one T-shaped connector. I don’t care if I have to crimp the butt end, but I do just want to splice into the main power cord for the remaining lights.

Basically I want the lights to look like this: (hope this displays

===========================================() <— 1 light
() 2 light—–() 3 light——-() 4 light —() 5light

Do these type of splices even exist? It would have to accept 2 wires
at the butt end and splice into the matching 2 wires from the powered

Otherwise that’s a lot of manual splicing, soldering, and electrical
tape and that doesn’t seem very safe.

Hope this made sense!

I did find these:

But I doubt they will work for my situation. (120v line, 20 watt halogen bulb in each light)

Any ideas?

Literally in the package I received 5 lights. each with it’s own plug, and a standard extension cord that you plug into an outlet and it accepts 5 plugs on the other end.

It’s jsut some cheap ass Home Depot shit…but it’s meant to be in series
Those connectors are made by 3M/Scotch, but I’m not certain they’re rated for line voltage use. Just cuz it fits doesn’t make it right.

Follow up to my previous post-all splices/connections/wire nuts whatever you want to call them, must be enclosed in a box rated for said purpose, unless the splice is made within the body of a fixture, and the fixture body is rated/listed for that purpose. The type of connector shown is called an ID connector, for Insulation Displacement, and while they are UL listed for the purpose, they need to be properly sized to the AWG of wire you’re using.
please dont tell me you were going to solder electrical connections..
houses dont get treated like car stereos!

like kazoo said, ID connectors are for low voltage situations, and they are typically exposed, under counters or so.

wire nuts are faster to use than either of your choices, and safer too