DIY range repair?
0 Our LG electric range is on the fritz, it’s 2-3 years old, and out of it’s 1-year warranty. It randomly shuts off, and eventually comes back on (not any heating elements), it’s just like the power is completely cut to the unit, then restored. It doesn’t matter if we’re using it at the time or not. I displays "PF" after it comes back on, indicating power failure (I’ve seen the same thing when our house power goes out). Checked the plug, checked the breaker, no issues there.
Both LG and Home Depot (where it was purchased) says they can’t help me, and I need to contact an appliance repair place. But money is tight, I know they typically charge a fee just for looking at the darn thing.
As for anything else that stops working, I’d like to have a go at it myself first (I do auto repairs, all sorts of home repairs, light fixtures, ceiling fans, plumbing, tiling, etc.). If it’s simply a part that needs to be swapped out/replaced, I can handle that just fine. But I can’t find a wiring schematic or service manual anywhere online, only stories of many other people with the same problem.
Should I pursue this, or is this super-complicated stuff that requires a pro?
Ok, I found a wiring schematic and service pamphlet attached to the back of the range. The cord from the range to the plug is good (tested for continuity). From the power inlet at the bottom of the range to various points on the PCBs shows continuity as well.
I tested the plug itself, 50 volts. Should be somewhere in the 210-220 area. Called brother, he says it could be a bad breaker, and I should test that. He says remove breaker panel and test current to the range breaker.
This frightens me. One of my uncles once asked my other uncle how electricity works, and his reply was "it’s magic man, don’t mess with it". I concur. So brother is going to try to find some time to come by and help out.
Get the Home Depot Home Wiring 1-2-3 book. It shows you with pics how to do it step by step
*why would I buy a book? I can just look that shit up online*
because you’ll need it when your power is out
Most invaluable tool you could have for working with power?
Noncontact voltage tester. Saved my ass plenty and they’re like 10 bucks.
testing the breaker is cake.
The plug did not read 50V – teh receptacle (or outlet) did. It should read 220 when you put the probes from your meter into the flat slots, and 110 when you got from the hole to each flat slot. If you are getting 50v – you either have a bad receptacle, bad breaker, or bad wiring.
Turn off the power and remove the receptacle, turn the power back on and test the back of the receptacle at the screw terminals, if the problem is the same, the plug is good, reinstall and move on.
Take the 6 screws holding the panel cover on. Take your meter and touch the 2 screws of the breaker with the probes, you should have 220 and if you got one probe on one screw terminal and one probe on the neutral bus bar, you should have 110v. if not, bad breaker. If you do, then your wiring may be suspect, make sure there are no breaks or anything that may be causeing intermittant opening of the circuit.
If getting shocked is your fear, give a friend a wooden broom and have them give you a good whack if things go bad. just be cautious when the panel cover is off. the copper bussbars running down the center and the mains coming in and thescrew terminals of the breaker, are teh only things that can shock you
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testing the breaker is cake.
The plug did not read 50V – teh receptacle (or outlet) did. It should read 220 when you put the probes from your meter into the flat slots, and 110 when you got from the hole to each flat slot. If you are getting 50v – you either have a bad receptacle, bad breaker, or bad wiring. Turn off the power and remove the receptacle, turn the power back on and test the back of the receptacle at the screw terminals, if the problem is the same, the plug is good, reinstall and move on. Take the 6 screws holding the panel cover on. Take your meter and touch the 2 screws of the breaker with the probes, you should have 220 and if you got one probe on one screw terminal and one probe on the neutral bus bar, you should have 110v. if not, bad breaker. If you do, then your wiring may be suspect, make sure there are no breaks or anything that may be causeing intermittant opening of the circuit. If getting shocked is your fear, give a friend a wooden broom and have them give you a good whack if things go bad. just be cautious when the panel cover is off. the copper bussbars running down the center and the mains coming in and thescrew terminals of the breaker, are teh only things that can shock you |
Thanks, I’ll give that a shot.
Brother came over to help me out, breaker was bad. Well, half of the breaker was bad. $12 for a new breaker, up and running again. I can’t imagine how much I would have paid an electrician for this.
As a new homeowner, I appreciate this entire thread. And the book suggestion – me and electricity have not had to mingle, but I think the new house is going to be testing that relationship over the next 30 years…
Glad it worked out =)
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